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.Down the center of the Valley, small towns hum with localtrade and out-of-towners in search of a festival, a Civil War39Western Virginia The Shenandoah Valleybattlefield, antiques or local art.Chain hotels are convenientto the interstate, but nicer quarters can be had in fine periodhomes renovated into bed & breakfasts.Restaurants serve uptasty local dishes and show a flair for haute cuisine.And forthose who like their recreation in one spot, Shenandoah sfour-season resorts  Bryce, Massanutten, Wintergreen andthe Homestead  offer golfing, skiing and much more.Forcomplete information, call The Shenandoah Valley TravelAssociation, 877-VISIT-SV, or visit their Web site, www.shenandoah.org.DAY 1: TRAVELThe Blue Ridge Parkway spans 470 miles of mountaintopfrom Virginia s Shenandoah National Park to Tennessee sGreat Smoky Mountains.From Roanoke north to BuenaVista, it passes the Peaks of Otter, a mountain so steep Virginiasettlers long considered it the state s highest peak.That is, un-til geologists actually measured Mount Rogers and declared itthe tallest peak at 5,791 feet.Pull into Lexington at the end of the day, where LlewellynLodge specializes in outdoor adventure.Innkeepers Ellenand John Roberts will hook you up with the best places tohike, fish, bike, ride horseback or play golf (603 South MainStreet, Lexington, 800-882-1145, www.LLodge.com, $).DAY 2: LEXINGTONFor breakfast, Ellen at Llewellyn Lodge serves up blue-ribbonomelets, waffles smothered in Virginia maple syrup, andJohn s Killer Hot Chocolate.All of it, great fuel for a busy dayoutdoors.John leads fly-fishing trips on Buffalo Creek, justeight minutes away.Beginners get personal  frustration-freeinstruction in the fine art of casting.John brings lunch along.Dinner can be early at The Palms, a former ice cream parlorthat has hosted celebs such as Jodie Foster and Oliver North.The Shenandoah Valley Salad is topped with chicken, baconand blue cheese (101 W.Nelson Street, 540-463-7911).Bring along a sweater for an evening at the Theater at LimeKiln.Plays run Tuesday through Saturday at 8pm.Typicalproductions feature plays set in Virginia, with some Shake-speare thrown in.An eclectic music lineup on Sundays mightfeature Celtic alt-rockers Carbon Leaf or bluegrass legend40 The Shenandoah ValleyRalph Stanley (14 S.Randolph Street, 540-463-3074, www.theateratlimekiln.com).DAY 3: TRAVELBefore saying farewell to the Llewellyn Lodge, pick up John s Top 20 Hikes & Trail Guide, then head for Goshen Passand an easy three-mile hike.When rhododendrons bloom inJune, this mountain gorge is one of the prettiest spots in Vir-ginia.VMI professor Matthew Fontaine Maury thought so.Back in 1873 his dying wish was that his body be carriedthrough the pass by VMI cadets, which they did.Have a picnic lunch at the wayside park at Goshen Pass, thenhead on to Raphine for a tour and tasting at RockbridgeVineyard ( 888-511-WINE), located in a renovated dairy.Arrive in Staunton, the Shenandoah Valley s oldest city, intime to check in at a bed & breakfast or inn within walking dis-tance of the historic downtown.Two inns worth noting are thefive restored homes of the Frederick House (28 N.NewStreet, 540-885-4220, www.frederickhouse.com), and theVictorian Belle Grae Inn (515 W.Frederick Street, 540-886-5151, www.bellegrae.com).DAY 4: STAUNTONIt s a full day of country music at the Statler Brothers Com-plex ( 540-885-7297), pioneer history at The FrontierCulture Museum s re-created villages ( 540-332-7850),and browsing among the 60-plus shops in Staunton.Goodluck choosing a place for lunch  downtown has more than 20restaurants.DAY 5: SHENANDOAH NATIONAL PARKFrom Staunton, head east through Waynesboro and climbAfton Mountain to reach Shenandoah National Park.Sky-line Drive runs north the entire length of the park with numer-ous overlooks the Valley to the west ($10 entrance fee, 540-999-3500, www.nps.gov/shen).Lunch at one of the park s lodges, Skyland (mile 41.7),which is on the highest point of Skyline Drive at 3,680 feet.The views of the Shenandoah Valley are even more spectacu-lar after a short 1.6-mile hike up to Stony Man Peak, the sec-41Western Virginia The Shenandoah Valleyond highest in the park.One day doesn t do this park justice,so plan on returning for a camping trip, a hike to one of themany waterfalls and a stay in one of the lodges.There s stillthe rest of Skyline Drive to travel, its heart-pounding twistsand turns with pull-outs at breathtaking vistas.Arrive in Front Royal tired and hungry.For lodging, go rusticat Mountainside Cottage, just below Skyline Drive (www.mountainsidecottage.com, 540-622-6221, $$$), or live itup at Killahevlin Bed & Breakfast, an Edwardian Man-sion turned B&B (1401 North Royal Avenue, 800-847-6132, www.vairish.com, $$$).SAY WHAT?If you ask for directions in the Shenandoah Val-ley, chances are good the advice will sound odd if not flat-out wrongheaded.Be patient.Valleyresidents have a peculiar sense of direction.Forexample, southbound travelers are said to be travel-ing  up the valley. Conversely, northbound trav-elers are headed  down the valley. The rationaleis tied to the Shenandoah River, which flowsnorth.To follow it downstream (north) is to travel down the valley. If it gets confusing, rememberthe  lower Valley is its northernmost reach.Andto get there, you have to head  down.DAY 6: FRONT ROYALPack a picnic basket for a day exploring more of ShenandoahNational Park, the Massanutten Mountain range, SkylineCaverns, or a day on the river.The south fork of the Shenan-doah has some of the best canoeing in the east, with a steadycurrent and even a little exciting whitewater.Several outfittersin town arrange trips [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
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